Packing your bike properly is the difference between arriving ready to ride and arriving with a repair bill. This guide covers everything from basic disassembly to pro tips that'll make baggage handlers less likely to treat your bike like a crash mat.
Before You Start
Tools You'll Need
Required Tools
- Pedal wrench (15mm) or Allen key (8mm)
- Allen key set (4mm, 5mm, 6mm)
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Soft rags or microfibre cloths
- Foam pipe insulation or pool noodles
- Bubble wrap
- Zip ties
- Cardboard pieces
- Marker pen (to mark positions)
Workspace Setup
- Clear floor space of at least 2m x 2m
- Good lighting (you'll be checking small details)
- A clean surface to lay parts on
- Your phone for taking "before" photos (trust us)
Pro Tip
Take photos of your bike before disassembly—saddle height, handlebar angle, derailleur position. Makes reassembly much faster, especially after a long flight.
Step 1: Remove Pedals
Pedals stick out and are the first thing to get damaged or damage your frame inside the bag.
The Process
- Position the crank arm forward (3 o'clock position for the side you're working on)
- Right pedal: Turn counter-clockwise to loosen (normal thread)
- Left pedal: Turn clockwise to loosen (reverse thread!)
- Use the frame for leverage—push down while holding the opposite crank
Memory Trick
"Left is loose... on the right." The right pedal loosens normally (counter-clockwise). The left pedal is the opposite. Mark your left pedal with tape if you always forget.
Step 2: Remove Wheels
Quick Release vs Thru-Axle
Most modern MTBs use thru-axles. If you're unfamiliar with your specific axle type, check your bike's manual or search "[your bike model] axle removal" on YouTube.
The Process
- Shift to smallest cog (rear wheel) for easier removal
- Open quick release or loosen thru-axle
- Lift frame, let wheel drop out
- Critical: Install rotor spacers immediately to protect disc brakes
Warning: Disc Brakes
Never squeeze brake levers with wheels removed. This pushes pistons out and you'll need to bleed brakes. Insert rotor spacers or a folded business card between pads immediately.
Step 3: Handlebars
You have two options here: loosen the stem and rotate bars, or completely remove them. Most soft bags work with rotated bars; hard cases often need full removal.
Option A: Rotate Bars (Soft Bags)
- Loosen the stem faceplate bolts (usually 4mm Allen)
- Don't fully remove—just enough to rotate bars 90°
- Bars should point along the frame, not sideways
- Wrap grips and levers with bubble wrap
Option B: Remove Bars (Hard Cases)
- Remove stem faceplate completely
- Carefully lay bars beside frame
- Keep cables connected if possible
- Secure loosely with velcro or zip ties
Step 4: Rear Derailleur
The derailleur hanger is the most vulnerable part of your bike. A bent hanger means no shifting. Protect it religiously.
The Process
- Shift to smallest cog before wheel removal
- Remove derailleur bolt (usually 5mm Allen)
- Tuck derailleur inside rear triangle
- Wrap in bubble wrap
- Secure with velcro strap (not zip tie—you need to undo this)
Spare Hanger
Pack a spare derailleur hanger. They're bike-specific, hard to find abroad, and cost $20-40. Worth having as insurance.
Step 5: Frame Protection
What Needs Protection
- Downtube: Foam pipe insulation or pool noodle
- Top tube: Same treatment
- Head tube: Bubble wrap around bearings area
- Dropouts: Cardboard covers (make from a box)
- Chainstay: Wrap where chain might contact
The goal is preventing any metal-to-metal contact and cushioning against impacts. Over-protect rather than under-protect—it's your bike.
Step 6: Loading Sequence
Order matters. A well-loaded bag rolls smoothly and protects better.
Soft Bag Loading Order
- Frame goes in first (most bags have a cradle or strap system)
- Wheels on either side of frame (rotor sides facing out)
- Fill gaps with soft items: helmet, shoes, knee pads
- Pedals in a cloth bag, tucked in a corner
- Tools and small parts in a ziplock, in an outer pocket
Hard Case Loading
- Follow case manufacturer's instructions (they're optimised)
- Frame in designated cradle
- Wheels in wheel pockets
- Fork in fork holder if available
- Straps snug but not crushing
Step 7: Final Checks
Pre-Flight Checklist
- Nothing loose or rattling when you shake the bag
- All zippers fully closed and lockable
- Wheels secured in place
- Rotor spacers in brake calipers
- Derailleur wrapped and protected
- No sharp objects poking through fabric
- Weight under airline limit (usually 23kg)
- Contact details visible on bag exterior
Weigh your packed bag at home. Airport overweight fees are typically $65-150 per flight. A $20 luggage scale pays for itself immediately.
At the Airport
Check-In Tips
- Arrive early—sports equipment check-in can take longer
- Pre-book your bike as sports equipment online if possible
- Have booking confirmation ready showing pre-paid bike fee
- Be friendly—check-in staff have discretion on weight enforcement
Do "Fragile" Stickers Help?
Honestly? Probably not much. But they don't hurt, and some riders swear by them. More useful: watch your bag go on the belt and note any rough handling.
Documentation
Take photos of your packed bag at check-in, including:
- Overall bag condition
- Any existing marks or wear
- The bag going onto the conveyor
This is your evidence if anything goes wrong. Airline liability is typically capped around $1,700 AUD regardless of your bike's value.
You're Ready
First time will feel slow and stressful. By your third trip, you'll have a system dialled. The key is practice—do a dry run at home before your first real trip.
And remember: a well-packed bike in a borrowed bag beats a poorly-packed bike in an expensive case. Technique matters more than equipment.
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